DIY: give old jeans a fresh hem (frayed, folded or released)

A pair of jeans that fits perfectly through the waist and hips but feels dated at the ankle does not need replacing. A new hem can change the whole look, turning a long, stacked leg into a neat cropped style that works with sneakers, loafers and boots. Here are three finishes you can do at home, from no-sew to a simple machine stitch.

What you need

• Sharp fabric scissors (keep them for fabric only)
• A tape measure and a ruler
• Tailor’s chalk or a washable fabric marker
• Pins or fabric clips
• An iron
• For the folded hem: a sewing machine with a denim or heavy-duty needle and strong thread
• For the released hem: a seam ripper
• Optional: a pair of tweezers or a pin for teasing out threads

Step one: measure carefully

Measuring is the part that matters most, because you cannot add length back.

1. Wear the shoes you plan to wear most with these jeans. Hem length looks very different with flat sneakers and with ankle boots.
2. Stand in front of a mirror and fold the leg under until you like the length. A common cropped length ends just above the ankle bone, but trust your eye.
3. Pin and mark that point on the outer side of one leg.
4. Take the jeans off and lay them flat, smoothing out any twisting in the legs.
5. Measure the inseam from the crotch seam to your mark, then transfer the same measurement to the second leg. Legs are not always identical, so measure both rather than folding one on top of the other.

Now decide on a finish, because each one needs a different cutting line.

Option 1: the raw frayed hem

This is the easiest and the most relaxed. It suits straight and slim cuts, and it pairs especially well with clean white sneakers.

1. Draw a straight line across the leg at your marked length plus about 1 cm, using the ruler to keep it level.
2. Cut slowly through both layers of the leg, or cut the front and back separately for more control.
3. To start the fray, gently pull out a few of the horizontal threads along the cut edge with a pin or tweezers.
4. If you want the fray to stop at a certain point, sew a line of straight stitches just above where you want it to end. This keeps the hem from unravelling further with every wash.

For a slightly undone, uneven look, you can cut the front a few millimetres shorter than the back, but keep it subtle.

Option 2: the clean folded hem

A folded hem looks polished and suits darker denim and smarter outfits.

1. Cut the leg at your marked length plus 3 to 4 cm.
2. Fold the raw edge up by about 1.5 cm towards the inside and press it flat with a hot iron.
3. Fold up again by the same amount so the raw edge is enclosed, and press again. Pin or clip in place.
4. Stitch close to the upper fold, all the way round, using a long stitch length and a denim needle. Go slowly over the thick side seams; turning the handwheel by hand helps.
5. Press the finished hem.

Thread in a gold or copper colour mimics the classic jeans topstitching, while a thread matched to the denim gives a quieter finish.

Option 3: the released hem

Releasing a hem means unpicking the original stitching and letting it down, rather than cutting. It works when your jeans are already the length you want, or slightly long, and you like the look of a soft, faded line at the bottom of the leg. It also works after cropping: cut first, then release only the new edge for a softer, rolled feel.

1. Use a seam ripper to carefully unpick the stitches holding the original hem.
2. Pull out the loose threads and unfold the fabric.
3. Press the fabric flat. The old fold line will usually show as a slightly paler band, which is part of the appeal.
4. Trim any loose threads and let the edge fray lightly, or add a line of stitching to keep it tidy.

Washing after

Once the new hem is done, wash the jeans inside out on a cool cycle. This sets the fray on a raw hem and softens a folded hem so it hangs naturally. Trim any long stray threads after drying. Air-drying is kinder to denim and reduces shrinkage; if you tumble-dry, use a low setting.

Styling the new length

Cropped jeans work well with a tucked-in denim shirt for a tonal outfit, or with a chunky knit and boots once the weather turns, as in our autumn layering guide. The leftover strips of denim can go into a scrap box for patches or small projects; they also make a good textured swatch to pin on a basic mood board.

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