A guide to natural fibres: cotton, linen, wool, silk and more

The label inside a garment says more about how it will feel, look and last than the price tag does. Two shirts in the same cut can behave completely differently depending on the fibre: one breathes and softens over the years, the other pills or creases after a few wears. Understanding the main natural fibres, and the semi-synthetic ones made from plants, helps you buy better and care for your clothes properly.

Plant fibres

Cotton

Cotton comes from the fluffy fibres around the seeds of the cotton plant. It is the most widely used natural fibre in clothing.

• Feel: soft, breathable, comfortable against the skin.
• Strengths: easy to wash, absorbent, durable, suitable for most seasons.
• Limits: creases, can shrink if washed hot, dries slowly.
• Varieties: long-staple cottons produce smoother, stronger yarns. Fabric names such as poplin, oxford, twill, jersey and denim describe the weave or knit, not the fibre.

Denim is the best-known cotton fabric, a sturdy twill. See our guide to one denim shirt, five outfits for ways to wear it.

Linen

Linen is made from the stalks of the flax plant. Flax has a long history of cultivation in Belgium and northern France, and the region is still well known for linen.

• Feel: crisp at first, softening with each wash.
• Strengths: very breathable, quick to dry, strong, ideal in hot weather.
• Limits: creases very easily. Most people accept the creases as part of its charm.
• Care: wash at moderate temperatures and iron while still slightly damp.

Animal fibres

Wool

Wool usually comes from sheep. Merino wool, from merino sheep, has particularly fine fibres that feel soft against the skin.

• Feel: warm, springy, from soft to scratchy depending on the fibre fineness.
• Strengths: regulates temperature, resists odours, recovers its shape, naturally resists creasing.
• Limits: can felt and shrink with heat and agitation, attractive to moths.
• Care: air often, wash rarely and gently. Our guide to washing and de-pilling knitwear explains how.

Cashmere

Cashmere comes from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats. It is collected in small quantities per animal, which partly explains its price.

• Feel: very soft and light, with a lot of warmth for its weight.
• Strengths: luxurious comfort, excellent insulation.
• Limits: pills more than wool, especially in the first wears; delicate.
• Buying tip: tightly knitted, denser cashmere usually pills less than very loose, fluffy knits.

Silk

Silk is a protein fibre produced by silkworms as they spin their cocoons.

• Feel: smooth, fluid, with a natural sheen.
• Strengths: light, comfortable in both warmth and cool, drapes beautifully.
• Limits: can be weakened by sunlight and perspiration, marks easily with water spots, delicate to wash.
• Care: hand wash in cool water with a gentle detergent, or dry clean if the label requires it.

Other animal fibres

Alpaca, mohair (from angora goats) and angora (from angora rabbits) are also used in knitwear. Each has its own character: alpaca is warm and smooth, mohair has a fluffy halo, angora is extremely soft.

Semi-synthetic fibres from plants

Some fibres are made from natural raw materials but transformed chemically. They are often grouped as “man-made cellulosic fibres”.

Viscose

Viscose, also called rayon, is made from cellulose, usually from wood pulp, which is dissolved and then extruded into fibres.

• Feel: soft, fluid, cool against the skin.
• Strengths: drapes well, takes colour beautifully, affordable.
• Limits: weaker when wet, can shrink or lose its shape if washed roughly.

Lyocell and modal

Lyocell and modal are also made from wood cellulose. Lyocell is produced with a process in which the solvent can be largely recovered and reused.

• Feel: smooth and soft, similar to silk or fine cotton.
• Strengths: strong, breathable, resistant to creasing compared with viscose.
• Use: shirts, dresses, T-shirts and as a blend with cotton.

Quick comparison

Blends

Many clothes mix fibres. A little elastane in cotton trousers adds stretch; polyester in wool can add durability and lower the price; cotton and linen together crease less than pure linen. Blends are not necessarily worse, but they change the behaviour of the fabric. Always read the composition and the care label; our guide to reading clothing care labels explains the symbols.

Choosing by season

• Summer: linen, cotton, silk, lyocell.
• Spring and autumn: cotton, fine merino, blends.
• Winter: wool, cashmere, alpaca, layered over cotton. See our guide to autumn layering.

A wardrobe built on good fibres, cared for properly, ages well. That is the simplest form of sustainable fashion: buying things that last, and helping them last longer still.

This article may contain partner links. They never influence what we write.